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By David Wigg

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They're still stealing stones," he told me when I met up with him in Nicosia, where he now teaches at Cyprus's newly created university. " I asked. "Someonea developerneeds stones for decoration and for creating fake antiquities. This is a ridiculous thing," he added with scorn. "You have an ancient site and you take the stones away to build fake arches in your hotel. I had people arrested more than once when I was there. " "We took them to court. They were given a ridiculous fine," he said, becoming agitated.

Here there were ancient cemeteries. It was impossible to preserve everything; some sort of compromise with those who wanted to build was inevitable. It was Demetrios Michaelides' "dreadful task" to excavate under every new hotel built there over the past ten years. " He even got threatening phone calls. " "It was agreed beforehand," Michaelides explained, "that apart from the Tombs of the Kings and some other similar ones, it was just not feasible to expropriate thousands of tombs that go for miles all the way round the old city.

Poppies and chrysanthemums are abundant in the spring, Klaus Klein's master plan saysit's a plan, after all, that's not just concerned with buffer zones, car parks, and pedestrian access. Flowers, farmhouses with orchards of fig trees, olive trees and prickly pears surrounded by drylaid fieldstone walls, the shoreline and the views out to sea, have always been part of why people came hereand the plan doesn't ignore this. " The majestic terebinth tree, for example, is found only in the Paphos area and is protected by law; resin was tapped from its trunk to use as chewing gum, and oil was distilled from its seeds for flavoring Easter cakes.

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