By David Snellgrove
A targeted account of the writer s shuttle in the course of the distant Dolpo area of the Himalayas, and the insights he recorded on Tibetan faith and culture.
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Extra info for Himalayan Pilgrimage: A Study of Tibetan Religion by a Traveller Through Western Nepal
2 7 7 - 8 . Tibetan classical spellings are indicated by the use of italics. Sanskrit presents no problem in this respect, fo r there is no such discrepancy between the written form s and the actual pronunciation. I have given the names of most divinities in English translation} followed by the Sanskrit name in brackets if they are of Indian origin and the Tibetan name if they are indigenous Tibetan divinities. A complete list is given in the appendix pp. 2 8 6 —8 . xxviii I THE START OF OUR JOURNEY K a t h m a n d u t least once in a lifetim e one should approach the N epal Valley on foot, for this is the sim plest way o f gaining an im pression o f its special historical and cultural significance.
T h e following m orning we were soon walking again by the high bank o f the Bheri, now a younger and slightly smaller river, tossing furiously along its rocky bed. W e were now entering the Jajarkot Valley and were impressed by its luxurious appearance, for the rich red clay was everywhere overgrown w ith w heat which would be ripe for harvest by the end of A pril. T h e m ain villages are K udu to the south-west, Lamlchhane to the south-east, Gharigrama in the centre and Tatagram a towards the north.
Even when they eat together, each m an is expected to produce his own ration, which will be poured by m utual agree m ent into the com m on pot. N ow th at this problem of food was finally settled, we continued upstream and cam ped high up above the right bank. An unusual event was the appearance o f a 16 T H E A S C E N T OF T H E B H E R I m an haw king bananas and to his great surprise we purchased the whole o f his stock. T h e next day we continued clim bing north wards o ut o f this valley, leaving behind us a circle of forestcovered hills, which dropped w ith the neat steps of careful terracing to the stream far below.